Wine Garage Joy Ride
Suisun Valley Solano County 2009
This is the second vintage of our crazy white blend. I utilized
the same varietal components but tweaked the percentages of
the blend – and REALLY tweaked the winemaking technique.
Our 2008 vintage showcased Albarino as the predominate grape
variety, with Sauvignon Blanc (from Napa Valley), Viognier, and a
splash of Muscat Canneli. Everything was whole cluster pressed
and stainless steel tank fermented. The nose was extremely aromatic,
the body had some weight to it, and the finish was crisp
and clean. All the fruit – except for the Sauv Blanc – came from
Howard Babcock’s vineyard in Suisun Valley in Solano County. For
this vintage I decided to drop the Sauvignon Blanc and replace
it with Verdelho – the famous grape from Portugal whose genealogical
parents are thought to be a cross between Pinot Gris
and Pinot Noir. Howard’s neighbor, Bob Ballestera, had a small
vineyard recently planted to Verdelho and I decided to make the
new Joy Ride completely appelated in Suisun Valley. Suisun Valley
lies within the southern end of the Coast Range, between the
Vaca Mountains and the Mt. George Range to the west, and ends
at Suisun Bay to the south while to the north it starts at the Napa
County line.
Suisun Valley lies within the southern end of the Coast Range, between the Vaca Mountains and the Mt. George Range to the west, and ends at Suisun Bay to the south while to the north it starts at the Napa County line. It is approximately 3 miles by 8 miles. It contains about 15,000 acres of which approximately 2,200 acres are planted with grapes. With the strong marine influence from San Pablo and San Francisco Bays, the wind blows cool and strong from May until October – perfect climate for crisp white wine grapes. I feel that this region will be one of the most sought out areas for unique white wine production in the coming years. My winemaker friend, Ted Osbourne, had a glowing review from James Laube of the Wine Spectator on one of his wines from Suisun a few years ago and Ted and I made a pact last year to use the Suisun Valley AVA on our wines from Solano (instead of “North Coast”) on everything from this great wine growing region from here on out. When the grapes came in – it wasn’t the typical “pick everything and throw it in the press”. It took almost a 45 day spread for all the varietals each to ripen. The first was the Muscat, then the Viognier, later the Verdelho, and finally the Albarino. The composite brix (sugar) levels were on average 23 (dry). Each batch was vinified separately and later blended together then…..the radical thought took hold in my crazy winemaker brain, “why not ‘barrel ferment’ and push it through malolactic fermentation”? The fruit was certainly crisp and tart enough, why not see how these babies taste with a little more body, mouthfeel, and weightiness to them. I gambled. Massimo was absolutely against it. I am always trying to push him out of the box – he is always trying to be the conservative influence on my craziness in being a unique wine producer. I gambled anyway. The wine stayed on its lees in neutral French barrels for a year.
Halfway through the aging process, I tasted the wine from barrel and thought I had made a huge gamble and lost. The wine tasted like CRAP! I was so bummed. Then I tasted it again a month later, and then another month later and …… BOOM. She came around! OMG! An unbelievable transformation occurred, I really couldn’t understand how it happened but the wine just came together beyond my wildest dreams. I have never tasted a white wine like this. The final blend is 39% Viognier, 26% Verdelho, 23% Albarino, and 12% Muscat. The nose is an aromatic blend of papaya, lime, hazelnut, limestone, and honeysuckle. Amazing acid and brilliant clarity on the first sip, then a rich weightiness of fruit – not a lick of butter (as per Chardonnay, that goes through malolactic fermentation). Lemon chiffon, white peach, green papaya, straw, wet stone, vitamin, and under ripe cantaloupe mingle on the mid palate. Every sip is different from the last. The finish has a nuttiness mixed with virgin olive oil and jasmine, then slammed with a green apple acidity for a crisp and clean finish. This, to me, tastes like a French white Burgundy – a mineral laced Chardonnay without a hint of oak or toast or butter. Try this with ALL FOODS. It is perhaps the quintessential “food wine”. I ran out today for a Thai Papaya Salad for lunch – shredded green papaya, chili, limes, and toasted peanuts. Perfect pairing….. We won the gamble, I hope you agree.
40 % albarino 30% Sauv Blanc 25% Viognier 5% Muscat Canelli
Production 400 Cases
Retail: $19.99